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Ahead Of ‘The Curve’: Stephen Jones Presents His SS25 Collection At London Fashion Week

Stephen Jones in his London studio presenting his Spring/Summer 2025 collection.

In his busy showroom located at the back of his quirky London shop, surrounded by the press, Stephen Jones presents The Curve, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection. It is inspired by the hugely influential Romanian sculptor Constantine Brâncuși and Paris couture designers Azzedine Alaïa, Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana—some of the fashion legends he has collaborated with over the years.

Jones is chairman of the British Hat Guild and patron of the Millinery Association of Australia. He is currently preparing for an exhibition at the Palais Galliera, also known as the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. The show will present 400 works, including 170 hats, Jones’s paper archives and around 40 complete designer silhouettes. He describes this retrospective as a way of exploring his relationship with Paris, in particular with fashion houses such as Christian Dior, with whom he has collaborated for almost 30 years. The exhibition, Stephen Jones. Chapeaux d’Artiste runs from October 19, 2024 to March 16, 2025. It’s the first time in over 40 years that the museum will devote an entire show to an accessory.

‘Trapėze’ A Montana trilby/visor in acetate, gold leaf and tulle from The Curve: Constantin, ... [+] Azzedine, Thierry, Claude Stephen Jones Millinery Spring Summer 2025 collection.

Stephen Jones’ office is adjacent to the showroom and has floor-to-ceiling bookshelves crammed with fashion books. Like a child in a sweetshop, I admire them with wonder. Jones and his team work in the workshop below, where they create his designs by hand, combining traditional and modern techniques. We sit down in the showroom, and he tells me that a lot of passion and effort goes into them and that each one is unique. He reiterates the importance of this when he tells me that people now want authenticity in fashion–they want something personal.

According to Digimarc, approximately 80% of consumers search for authenticity when buying luxury products, rising to 83% amongst millennials, who place particular emphasis on the item’s legitimacy.

‘Laser’ A Mugler lamé visor with frayed crin halo from The Curve: Constantin, Azzedine, Thierry, ... [+] Claude. Stephen Jones Millinery Spring Summer 2025 collection.

His current collection strikes me as exceptionally varied. Like fragments of memories, the elements range from colorful daytime bucket hats to exquisite pieces for smart occasions, some in gold, some with netting or feathers. A hat called “Laser,” described as a Mugler lamé visor with a frayed crin halo, is particularly striking. I ask Jones if he has a favorite hat, and he tells me he loves the flying beret that was inspired by Azzedine Alaïa: a gold beret that sits on a metal headpiece, elevating the hat. He explains that he made many berets for Alaïa and thinks that he might have liked this one, its sense of humor, because it’s raised as if flying.

‘Chicer’ A Alaïa flying metallic straw beret with crest from The Curve: Constantin, Azzedine, ... [+] Thierry, Claude Stephen Jones Millinery Spring/ Summer 2025 collection.

We discuss how he comes up with his unusual designs in the first place, and he tells me that it’s funny but that he is never really quite sure how they arrive. “I always chuckle to myself because I always think it’s just a whim, it’s a whim, it’s just a thought at the last moment or early on,” he says. “I remember very, very early on in my career talking to Manolo Blahnik, and I said, you know, ‘How do you do it, Manolo? You’re an absolute expert.’ And he said, ‘Well, you have to be better informed than any fashion designer because you absolutely have to know what’s going on. And then you have to forget all that and just do as you please.’ So, in a way I think the whim, because it’s a very pure thought…and I think now especially people want authenticity in fashion. That’s what they pay for.”

‘Cher’ A Brancusi gold ‘Madame Pogany’ mask from The Curve: Constantin, Azzedine, Thierry, Claude ... [+] Stephen Jones Millinery Spring Summer 2025 collection.

We talk about how accessible fashion has become and Jones tells me that if a customer wants a T-shirt, they can get one anywhere, beautiful T-shirts at any price they want to pay. But the reason someone is going to buy a Stephen Jones hat is because they have an authenticity to them from inception to execution, and they are fitted and adjusted.

And authentic they are, each telling a story, reflecting a memory perhaps, whilst certainly creating a new one.

Stephen Jones wears a suit from Thom Browne and a shirt buy Thierry Mugler.

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Source: https://www.forbes.com/sites/laiafarrangraves/2024/09/28/ahead-of-the-curve-stephen-jones-presents-his-ss25-collection-at-london-fashion-week/